Steering & Suspension

Steering & Suspension

Alignment

Tire alignment, also known as wheel alignment, can help your tires perform properly and help them last longer. It can also improve handling and keep your vehicle from pulling in one direction or vibrating strangely on the road.

WHAT IS TIRE ALIGNMENT?
Alignment refers to an adjustment of a vehicle’s suspension – the system that connects a vehicle to its wheels. It is not an adjustment of the tires or wheels themselves. The key to proper alignment is adjusting the angles of the tires which affects how they make contact with the road.

HOW DO I KNOW IF I NEED A TIRE ALIGNMENT?
There are a couple ways to tell if your car needs a tire alignment. If you’ve noticed one or more of these indicators, you should have your alignment checked by one of our licensed service technician immediately.

• Uneven tread wear
• Vehicle pulling to the left or right
• Your steering wheel is off center when driving straight
• Steering wheel vibration

CAMBER, TOE, & CASTER
When a technician checks your tire alignment, he or she is mainly concerned with three things:
1. CAMBER
This is the inward or outward angle of the tire when viewed from the front of the vehicle. Too much inward or outward tilt, also known as negative and positive camber, respectively, indicates improper alignment and will need to be adjusted. Worn bearings, ball joints, and other wheel-suspension parts may contribute to camber misalignment.
2. TOE
Distinct from camber alignment, toe alignment is the extent to which your tires turn inward or outward when viewed from above. If that’s confusing, just stand up and look down at your feet. Angle them inward toward the center of your body. When the tires on your car are angled the same way (remember, we’re thinking in terms of birds-eye-view), we call this toe-in alignment. Angle your feet outward and you have toe-out alignment. Both require adjustment.
3. CASTER
Your caster angle helps balance steering, stability, and cornering. Specifically, it’s the angle of your steering axis when viewed from the side of your vehicle. If you have positive caster, the steering axis will tilt toward the driver. Negative caster, on the other hand, means the steering axis tilts toward the front of your vehicle.

WHY TIRE ALIGNMENT MATTERS
Improper wheel or tire alignment can cause your tires to wear unevenly and prematurely. Here are some specific types of undue tread wear attributable to misalignment:

FEATHERING
Tires are “feathered” when the tread is smooth on one side and sharp on another. This is usually a sign of poor toe alignment.

CAMBER WEAR
This strain of tread wear means the inside or outside of the tread is significantly more worn than the center of the tread. As its name implies, positive or negative camber causes this type of wear.

HEEL/TOE WEAR
This happens when one side of your tread blocks wears down more quickly than the other in a circumferential direction. When you run your hand over the tread, it will look and feel like saw teeth when viewed from the side. Heel/toe wear could be a sign of under inflation and/or lack of rotation.
If you’re experiencing any of these unusual wear patterns, you should have a technician check your alignment. While tire wear prevention is a good reason to keep your wheel alignment in check, the consequences of misalignment can also play out in overall vehicle performance. A car that pulls to one side or steers erratically, for example, probably has an alignment problem.

TIRE BALANCING
Distinct from tire alignment, tire or wheel balancing refers to compensation for any weight imbalances in the tire/wheel combination and is often performed in conjunction with wheel alignment. There are two basic types of tire/wheel imbalance that need correction – static (single plane) and dynamic (dual plane).

Static balance addresses balance on only one plane – vertical movement which can cause vibration. A dynamic imbalance, on the other hand, addresses balance in two planes – vertical movement and lateral movement . Both types of imbalance require the use of a special balancing machine to help even things out.

To begin balancing your tires, a technician will mount them on the correct rims and adjust the pressure to optimal inflation. Then each tire goes on the center bore of a balancing machine. The machine spins the tire at a high speed to measure the wheel/tire combination imbalance. It signals how much weight the tech should add to balance out the tire and the areas where said weight is needed.

Tire balancing is essential for proper tire care for the same reason as wheel alignment: prevention of premature tread wear. Having tires aligned and balanced every 5,000 to 6,000 miles can help maximize their lifespan and overall performance.

Tire Balancing

Distinct from tire alignment, tire or wheel balancing refers to compensation for any weight imbalances in the tire/wheel combination and is often performed in conjunction with wheel alignment. There are two basic types of tire/wheel imbalance that need correction – static (single plane) and dynamic (dual plane).

Static balance addresses balance on only one plane – vertical movement which can cause vibration. A dynamic imbalance, on the other hand, addresses balance in two planes – vertical movement and lateral movement . Both types of imbalance require the use of a special balancing machine to help even things out.

To begin balancing your tires, a technician will mount them on the correct rims and adjust the pressure to optimal inflation. Then each tire goes on the center bore of a balancing machine. The machine spins the tire at a high speed to measure the wheel/tire combination imbalance. It signals how much weight the tech should add to balance out the tire and the areas where said weight is needed.

Tire balancing is essential for proper tire care for the same reason as wheel alignment: prevention of premature tread wear. Having tires aligned and balanced every 5,000 to 6,000 miles can help maximize their lifespan and overall performance.

TPMS – Tire Pressure Monitoring System: In theory, a TPMS is a feature that helps drivers understand the safety of their cars. But it’s only effective if drivers can identify the light and are still vigilant about checking their tire pressures. A 2014 study by Schrader International, a company that manufactures TPMS systems, found that 42 percent of drivers are unable to identify the low tire-pressure warning light on the instrument cluster. Roughly the same percentage of those polled admitted to rarely checking the tire pressure.

For those who do recognize the TPMS light, 21 percent said that when they stop to check the low tire, they only give it a visual inspection rather than using a tire pressure gauge, the study said. Worse yet, roughly 10 percent admitted to ignoring the light altogether.

People who rely on the TPMS to warn them about low pressure are taking chances. A tire that’s underinflated by just 5 psi can potentially fail. An underinflated tire flexes more than a properly inflated tire, and that creates heat. Excessive heat can break down components and chemical bonds inside a tire. It’s much like bending a wire coat hanger: Bend it far enough and long enough, and it will heat up and snap. It’s especially important to be vigilant about tire pressure when the weather is hot and vehicle speeds are high.

In addition to being a safety hazard, low tire pressure decreases fuel economy and causes tires to wear out more quickly. These are all reasons to be vigilant about checking tire pressure at least monthly and to not rely on a TPMS to do the job. But when your light does come on you can rely on Wisener’s Auto Clinic to Diagnose and repair any component of the TPMS system or simply give you a curtesy tire inflation.

Steering Rack & Pinion

As steering is essential for controlling your car, it’s important to diagnose and repair any steering issues as quickly as possible. Typical steering problems include:

Very tight steering wheel

If it is becoming more difficult to turn your steering wheel, it’s a sign that there’s probably a problem either with your steering rack or a lack of pressure from the power steering unit. The solution could be as simple as adding more power steering fluid, but it’s best to get it checked.

Leaking power steering fluid

Power steering fluid levels only decrease and result in tight steering if there is a leak. This isn’t a big problem, however the consequences for leaving it too long include causing the steering gearbox and steering rack to overheat or gears to break. It is recommended to get this fixed when it is a simple (and cheap) task. Click here for more information about the causes of these leaks

Grinding noise when steering

A grinding noise from your steering gearbox comes from metal-on-metal contact, suggesting a lack of lubrication. You’ll be able to hear it clearly when you turn either left or right. Ask your mechanic to take a look at the problem, as your steering gearbox could need replacing.

Burning oil smell

Power steering fluid smells like burning oil, so if you smell it when driving it’s a sign that the steering gearbox is too hot. It’s best to stop your car as soon as possible and get the problem looked at it. Driving with an overheated steering gearbox can result in fire.

Power Steering Repair

Any time you take a highly pressurized system responsible for generating hundreds of pounds of force, it stands to reason that this system will be under stress. There are a few common ways in which the power steering system can wear out or break down.

Power Steering Fluid Leak

The power steering system is completely dependent on the hydraulic fluid. If there isn’t enough fluid or the fluid has been compromised, you’ll run into problems. A common issue with the power steering system is a power steering fluid leak.

This can happen at any point in the chain of components. The cylinder of the rack and pinion unit can develop a crack or leak from either the cylinder itself or more commonly from the steering rack seals, the fluid lines may develop cracks or holes that leak power steering fluid, or the pump can spring a leak. All of these occur due to the wear and tear and high pressure the fluid is raised to.

If your power steering system develops a leak, it’s a matter of time before your fluid levels drop to the point where your power steering either begins to be less effective or even fails entirely. You definitely don’t want to let it get to that point. If you detect any evidence of your power steering fluid leaking, you’ll want to bring your vehicle in for service as soon as possible. Signs of a leak include the sight of fluid beneath your car, a noise from under the hood particularly while turning, or a decrease in the effectiveness of your power steering.

Contaminated Power Steering Fluid

In comparison to something like your car’s engine oil, power steering fluid remains relatively clean over time. The process isn’t as messy as the combustion of fuel in the engine or other systems that dirty up their respective fluid quicker. However, as time goes on the power steering fluid does in fact begin to accumulate debris. This chiefly comes from micro bits of plastic or metals worn from the inside of the system.

Other than maybe a screen within a particular component, a power steering system has no main filter for the fluid, meaning that debris builds up within the fluid and is never removed unless it’s flushed out manually. If the power steering fluid becomes too contaminated, it will begin to wear away at the inside of the power steering system and do damage to the fluid lines, pump and cylinder.

A power steering flush removes all the old fluid from the system and clears out any accumulated grime and debris. Brand new fluid is then filled back up to optimum levels. Many manufacturers recommend getting a power steering flush at regular intervals. If it’s been a while, consult your user manual or bring your car in to us for a power steering flush.

Problems with the Power Steering Pump

The power steering pump is powered by your car’s engine. A belt runs from the crankshaft to the power steering pump, and over time that belt can wear out, crack, and eventually break. If the power steering belt breaks, your power steering will not function. Part of a car’s routine maintenance should be inspecting the belt for signs of wear to determine whether it needs replacement. Our Certified Automotive Experts inspect all belts during routine vehicle maintenance.

Another common issue is the power steering pump itself going bad. If the pump starts to wear out, it won’t be as effective in pressurizing the fluid, and your power steering effectiveness will suffer. You may be able to detect the power steering pump failing if you hear noises while it’s working, that it, typically while your turning the steering wheel.

Power Steering Rack Failure

The power steering rack is in a lot of ways the heart of your power steering system. If the power steering rack breaks down, it’s even more dangerous than many of the other previously discussed issues, as it may compromise your ability to handle the car at all.

There are a few clues that your power steering rack may be on the verge of failure. If your steering wheel feels unusually tight, this is a potential sign. Another is grinding or other metallic noises when you turn the wheel. A very common precursor to power steering rack failure is fluid leaking from the rack. If you’re noticing signs along these lines, it’s a good idea to bring your vehicle in to us for service sooner rather than later.

If you’re experiencing any issues with your power steering system or would just like a routine preventative inspection of your system, give us a call today.

Shocks & Struts

Shocks and struts are both parts of your vehicle’s suspension system. However, each one has a very specific job.

Shock absorbers are hydraulic components that help minimize movement generated by the vehicle’s springs. These springs absorb some of the jolts you might feel from uneven or damaged roads. By softening the impact from rough roads and rocky terrain, shocks can help you maintain better control over your vehicle, resulting in a smoother, more comfortable driving experience.

Struts are structural components of certain vehicles’ steering and suspension systems. They usually consist of a spring and a shock absorber. Struts are designed to be much stronger than shocks since they are weight-bearing components. Additionally, they help dampen vehicle jolts and improve your vehicle’s steering and alignment.

Shocks and struts can wear out, especially if you do a lot of off-roading or drive on uneven or rough roads. It is recommended that you have your shocks and struts inspected after 50,000 miles or according to your vehicle manufacturer’s maintenance schedule.

Ball Joints & Control Arms

Most vehicles use either one or two control arms per wheel, on both the front and rear suspension. Many front-wheel drive vehicles only use a lower control arm, while trucks and SUVs often have both an upper and lower control arm. A control arm connects the wheel hub and steering knuckle to the frame of the vehicle. They are typically equipped with bushings on the frame side of the vehicle and a ball joint on the wheel side of the vehicle that allow flex and controlled movement according to road conditions and steering input from the driver. Control arms allow wheels to move up and down while preventing forward and rearward movement.

Control arm bushings usually consist of an outer metal sleeve, a durable rubber or polyurethane bushing, and an inner metal sleeve. Control arm bushings are important for driving comfort and handling. They cushion the suspension system which in turn controls noise and vibrations, and also provide a softer ride over bumps. Bushings can flex and move while retaining stiffness and the ability to return to their original shape and position.

Many suspension and steering joints utilize bushings when components need to be mounted together where vibration is a concern. Bushings are used in control arms, shock absorber mounts, stabilizer bars, stabilizer links, engine and transmission mounts, and other suspension and steering components. Bushings have a function similar to cartilage in joints of the body. Worn or damaged cartilage results in bone on bone contact and discomfort. Worn or damaged bushings can allow metal on metal contact, tire wear, discomfort, noises, and vibrations. Bushings deteriorate due to heat, age, exposure, heavy loads, salt, oils, and the stress of frequent movement.

Like the ball and socket joint that connects and holds your leg bone to your hip bone, a ball joint connects and holds the front suspension of your vehicle together. In the same way your leg can move up and down, and side to side, a ball joint enables the wheel and suspension to move together in the same manner.

Ball joints allow a limited range of movement in all directions and are the pivot between the wheels and the suspension. A single ball joint is used to allow free movement in two planes at the same time, including rotating in those planes. Combining two such joints with control arms enables motion in three planes, allowing the front end of an automobile to be steered and a spring and shock suspension to make the ride controlled and comfortable.

There are two kinds of ball joints. Ball joints are classified as either load-carrying or follower types, and their position in the suspension varies depending on the suspension design. Load-carrying ball joints are designed to support the weight of the vehicle while providing a pivot point for the steering system. Follower ball joints are designed to maintain precise dimensional tolerances as well as a pivot point for the steering system. These two types of joints often have different wear and failure rates, with the load-carrying joints usually failing first.

Many currently manufactured vehicles worldwide use a MacPherson strut suspension, which utilizes one lower control arm and one lower ball joint per wheel with the necessary small amount of movement at the top of the strut usually provided by an elastomeric (rubber like) bearing, within which is a ball bearing to allow free rotation about the steering axis. In this design, the lower ball joint is a follower, with the bottom of the strut connected directly to the steering knuckle and wheel. The bearing plate of the upper strut mount carries the vehicle’s weight, leaving the lower ball joint to act only as a pivot point. In a non-MacPherson strut automobile suspension, the two ball joints per wheel are called the upper ball joint and the lower ball joint. In the majority of these designs, the coil spring is seated in the lower control arm, supporting the weight of the vehicle. The lower ball joint is the load-carrying joint in this type of suspension, while the upper ball joint is the follower, with no significant load to support. It acts only as a second pivot point for steering.

Most modern ball joints are sealed and do not require lubrication as they are lubed for life. Historically, most ball joints had grease fittings called grease zerks and were designed to have lubricant periodically added. The lubricant was usually a very high-viscosity lubricant. Almost all modern vehicles now use sealed ball joints to minimize maintenance requirements. New technology, especially applied to the internal bearing design and synthetic lubricants along with improved dust boot sealing, has allowed longer ball joint service intervals and better grease retention.
While there is no exact lifespan that can be put on sealed ball joints, they can fail as early as 80,000 miles in modern vehicles, and much sooner depending on the type of driving. If a ball joint fails completely, the wheel could separate from the steering knuckle which will cause a complete loss of control. The tire will be at an unintended angle, and the vehicle will come to an abrupt halt. This could damage the wheel and tire, other suspension components, and possibly even other parts of the vehicle.

There are a lot of possible signs of a failing ball joint or control arm bushings. These may include a clicking, popping, or snapping sound when the wheel is turned and eventually turn into a squeaking sound at the end of a stop, when the gas pedal is used, and/or when turning the steering wheel. Another symptom could be knocking and clunking noises coming from the suspension when going over bumps. The sounds will continuously get louder as the component wears or eventually breaks. Dry ball joints have dramatically increased friction and can cause the steering to stick or be more difficult. Excessively worn bushings or ball joints can cause wheel shimmy, which may cause vibrations that are felt in the steering wheel. Vibrations may increase during acceleration and smooth out at higher speeds.

Another symptom commonly associated with bad or failing control arm components is steering wandering. Excessively worn ball joints, bushings, or a combination of these can cause the vehicle’s steering alignment to shift, which may cause the steering to pull to the left or right when traveling down the road. This will require constant driver correction to steer the vehicle straight.

The time for regularly scheduled oil changes is the best time to inspect control arms, bushings, and ball joints. A quick test drive will allow for a wide range of driving conditions. Cornering left and right, hitting bumps, and cruising on straight and level ground while braking and accelerating are all important to get a feel for any noises or performance issues related to the control arm assemblies. Visually inspect the control arm bushings for cracking, splitting, tears, missing parts, and oil saturation.

Tie Rod Ends

Tie rod ends are a part of the steering system. Tie rods connect the spindle, on which your front wheel is mounted on one end, to the steering gear mechanism on the other end.

Whether your car steering design is a rack and pinion system or a steering gear box system, both systems have inner tie rod ends and outer tie rod ends. An outer tie rod end is connected to each front wheel spindle, and an inner tie rod end is connected to the steering rack or steering gear box assembly.

As your steering wheel is turned, a shaft connects the steering wheel to a steering gear assembly – either a steering gear box or rack and pinion gear mechanism. This gear box mechanism connects through a series of arms which connects to the tie rod ends. As you steer left or right, the steering gear pushes the steering arms and tie rods left or right respectively.

Sway Bars & Links

A sway or stabilizer bar prevents the car body from leaning too much and keeps the vehicle stable when driving in turns. Most of the cars have one sway bar in the front and another separate sway bar in the rear suspension. Sway Bar LinkSway (stabilizer) bar link. Some cars have only one sway bar in the front suspension. Sports cars have thicker sway bars for better stability when cornering.

A sway bar is connected via rubber bushings to the car body or frame in the middle. Outer ends of the sway bar are connected to the parts of the vehicle suspension that holds the wheel (struts or control arms). The part that connects the outer ends of the sway bar to the suspension component is called a sway bar link. In most cars a sway bar link has two small ball joints at each end.

Over time, the sway bar link ball joints wear out. The first sign of a worn-out sway bar link is a knocking noise from the suspension when driving slow over road bumps. In rare cases, if the grease inside the sway bar link joints dries up, it may also make a creaking noise when the suspension is moving up and down.

We can check the sway bar links while performing a regular service with the car on the lift. A worn-out sway bar link will show a freeplay when pushed up or down. An extremely worn out sway bar link can separate. This will cause your car to lean excessively in turns and feel less stable and secure on the road. A worn-out sway bar link must be replaced to keep your vehicle safe.

SYMPTOMS OF FAILING TIE ROD ENDS

Uneven tire wear. If the inside or outside tread of your front tires are wearing early compared to the rest of the tread, it can be a sign that the wheel camber is incorrect.

Squealing sound from the front when turning. This sounds different from the squeal/groan the power steering makes when low on fluid. A failing tie rod end has more of a brief, high-pitched shriek. This could just be a bad ball joint, so take a look to be sure.

Loose steering feel. Also described as clunky or shaky steering, this will feel like a slight disconnect between steering movement and the associated movement in the wheel/tire.

Tie rod failure. This is the most severe sign. A broken tie rod causes steering loss, which could lead to an accident. This is why manufacturers take these components seriously and recall a vehicle if there’s a chance they were misassembled at the factory.

Bushings

Bushings may seem small, but they play a big role in driver comfort and longevity of a vehicle’s steering and suspension system. A bushing acts as a cushion between parts and controls the amount of movement in the joints while reducing road noise, vibration and harshness. Steering and suspension bushings can deteriorate over time due to stress from constant movement, friction, heat and exposure to dirt and contaminants such as road salts and lubricants. Since a worn or damaged bushing will negatively impact these functions, it is important to inspect them regularly and replace whenever necessary.

When bushings completely fail, metal-to-metal contact will occur between joints and connected parts, which will significantly decrease the life of the affected parts. Steering and suspension components can be expensive to replace, so it is important to install new bushings at the first sign of deterioration. A visual bushing inspection will show damaged or worn bushings, such as tears in the rubber or breaks in the rubber-to-metal bonding.

Wheel Bearings

Ball bearings are the most common type of wheel bearings used today (along with roller bearings—though the latter don’t have the versatility of the ball ones). Other types include tapered roller bearings, mainly used for trucks, and precision ball bearings, designed for intense radial loads. Regardless of the type your vehicle has, the warning signs are the same, specifically a bad wheel bearing sound.

Here are just a few things to keep in mind:

First and foremost, listen! The most common and most easily identifiable symptom of a bad wheel bearing is an audible one. If you notice a grinding or grating noise coming from your wheel or tire, take note that this is very likely caused by a bad wheel bearing—especially if the noise gets louder as the vehicle accelerates.

Another revealing sign of bad wheel bearings: A car that feels loose as you drive it. Looseness can be difficult to convey, but basically, it refers to steering your car and finding that it seems less responsive or less precise than usual. Loose steering is not always due to a problem with the wheel bearings, but it very often can be. Sometimes the wheel bearings can become worn down, which causes them to loosen within your wheel assembly.

A related phenomenon is pulling. When you drive, does the car go where you tell it to or does it seem like it has a mind of its own, veering in a particular direction? Again, this is not always because of a problem with the wheel bearing, but that can certainly be a culprit.

Finally, pay attention to your tires. Rotating your tires regularly can help prevent wear—but if you find that you have extremely uneven wear, you may want to have the wheel bearings looked at.

How to Distinguish Bad Wheel Bearing Noise

Wheel Bearing Noise:

Humming Noises

There are many sounds coming from a vehicle that are reason for concern, so it’s important to differentiate between them in order to avoid misdiagnosis. Noise can be misleading: a humming noise while driving can be caused by several different issues, starting with your tires, but it can also be the wheel bearing or CV joint.

Squealing & Growling

The classic sounds of a bad wheel bearing are cyclic chirping, squealing and/or growling noise. You can also tell that the sound is related to wheel bearings if it changes in proportion to vehicle speed. The sound can get worse with every turn, or it can disappear momentarily.

Rear Differential Noise vs Wheel Bearing Noise

Howling noise that solely occurs during deceleration is a pretty good indicator of loose pinion-bearing preload. If the howling happens under acceleration at different speeds, then it’s probably worn out gears. However, overly worn out bearings tend to make a howling noise as well, when they don’t support the gears correctly. They also tend to make a rumbling sound when turning.

A Bad Wheel Bearing is a Serious Problem

In short: A problem with the wheel bearings can compromise the smoothness of your ride and the longevity of your tires, but more than that, it can cause real safety concerns. As such, it is important to have wheel bearings inspected at the first sign of trouble.

Don’t take this often-ignored auto component for granted. Be attuned to these warning signs. At the first sign of trouble, take the vehicle in to have the wheel bearings inspected.

Hub Assembly

First and foremost, the wheel hub assembly keeps your wheel attached to your vehicle and allows the wheels to freely turn enabling you to safely steer.

The wheel hub assembly is also critical to your anti-lock braking system (ABS) and the traction control system (TCS). Besides bearings, hub assemblies contain the wheel speed sensor that controls your vehicle’s ABS braking system. The sensor constantly relays to the ABS control system how fast each wheel is turning. In a hard braking situation, the system uses the information to determine if anti-locking braking is needed.

Your vehicle’s traction control system also uses the ABS wheel sensors to operate. Considered an extension of the anti-lock braking system, the TCS system and ABS system work together to help you keep control of your car. If this sensor fails, it can compromise your anti-lock braking system and your traction control system.

How do I know if I have a bad wheel hub assembly? A failing wheel hub assembly can present a variety of symptoms including:

• Growling, humming, squeaking, chirping or squealing from the tires when driving at 30-45mph.
• Steering wheel may shake as you drive.
• ABS light will come on if the sensor isn’t reading properly or if the signal is lost.

Lug Nuts & Studs

How does the wheel stud work?